A blog on social / public issues / education and cultural life in Catalonia, Spain and wider Europe.
Sunday, March 19, 2023
"Transforming broken skateboards into drinkable water:" Barcelona meets Africa
Wednesday, March 8, 2023
"The women ham carvers of Spain" – #InternationalWomensDay
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| [Raquel Acosta is one of Spain's most high-profile carvers (Credit: Josu Acosta)] |
"Carving legs of Iberian ham in bars, restaurants and at events has traditionally been a man's job. Now, a new generation of women is taking their place at the slicing table."
(From personal experience, I can say this carving is very difficult to do...)
Jill Petzinger's article for BBC Travel here.
Monday, March 6, 2023
The "reading" of minds (Disturbing? Wonderful? AI is certainly significant...)
Mar 3

Tuesday, February 28, 2023
"Top 10 neglected books about the Spanish Civil War"
The Guardian recently published an article by Sarah Watling with [arguably] lesser-known books about the Spanish Civil War that are available in English.
Friday, February 24, 2023
"Why Read Homage to Catalonia By George Orwell? A Short Review"
Rightly describing George Orwell as "one of the great commentators of his own era." Personally, I'd go further and say of any era in the English language.
Orwell had an ability to get to the visceral in a way that few have. Shakespeare regularly did. James Baldwin also did.
Sunday, February 19, 2023
Tuesday, February 14, 2023
"Grabbing Granados" – My latest article for Catalonia Today magazine
[This article* was first published in Catalonia Today magazine, Feb. 2023.]

A huge boat is sinking in The English Channel. A man is clinging on to the side of a tiny raft, only big enough for one woman to kneel on. Soon, both drown in sight of other passengers.
According to witness Daniel Sargent, this is what happened to Catalan composer and pianist Enric Granados i Campiña and his wife Amparo Gal, who was too heavy to get into a lifeboat. Granados apparently refused to leave her alone in the sea and tragically on March 24, 1916 their six children became orphans.
In this ill-fated transatlantic crossing, returning from a tour, the boat they’d been on (the French-flagged Sussex) was mistaken for an enemy minelayer craft and torpedoed and sunk by the Germans. Only days earlier Granados had been playing piano in the White House for US President Woodrow Wilson.
Born in Lleida in 1867 and the son of a colonel (originally from Spanish Cuba) and a Galician mother, at the age of 10 he began to study music and gave public concerts in his hometown (though his first major recital was in 1890, when he was 23 years old.) Still a child, he moved to Barcelona and was enrolled at the Escolania de la Merced.
As is so often the case though with historical figures, myths and disagreement surround important areas of Granados’ life. The financial impact of his father’s premature death at just 57 is unclear but it seems likely that his mother received the correct widow’s military pension and kept the wolves from the door in this way.
What is known is that Enric got a job playing piano for five hours a day at the Café de las Delicias, but around the time he moved his ivory tinkling gig to the Café Filipino, the Catalan impresario Eduardo Condé was also funding him to a very pretty tune as music teacher of his children.
In fact, many of the best Catalan pianists of recent times came out of the music academy in Barcelona that bore Granados’ name. The institution became a centre for a theoretical-practical method for piano pedals that Granados had developed from the teachings he’d held onto from living in Paris two years before.
His masterpiece as a composer is the suite for piano “Goyescas” (1912-14) inspired by works of the Spanish painter Francisco de Goya. Partially first performed at the Metropolitan Opera House in New York, it helped lead to his White House triumph. Despite these kinds of success, Granados went on to suffer from extreme stage fright later in his performing life, according to one source, even begging that he not be forced to play.
I wanted to know more about this man with the fruity name, his name having been given to one of my favourite streets in the Catalan capital. With only one slow lane of traffic, it’s a gently sloping oasis of near-calm and almost-quiet when all around is everything but that, lined with superb restaurants and quaint little speciality shops or delis at both ends.
I grab any opportunity to walk up or down this street. Sometimes I go out of my way to be on it, a part of it, while I think about the man too these days.
[*Most likely this will be my final piece for Catalonia Today magazine. Apparently for economic reasons, it has been cut in half: down to just 32 pages. This means independent journalists who are not directly employed have been also cut. I wrote for them between 2008 – 2023 and would like to thanks all those involved in the production of the publication.]
Saturday, February 4, 2023
"High power prices taking extra toll on sick Spaniards"
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| [Pic: Reuters: Nacho Doce] |
"Nearly 4 per cent of Spanish households in the fourth income decile — a segment typically viewed as middle class — have spent more than half of their income on energy since the rise in prices last year, an Oxfam survey has found."
Read more from ABC (Australia) here.
Sunday, January 29, 2023
La mà que va signar el paper* (The Hand That Signed The Paper) – A poem by Dylan Thomas
(*Translated into Catalan below with Antoni Cardona)
La mà que va signar el paper va enderrocar una ciutat;
Cinc dits sobirans van posar taxes a l’alè,
Van duplicar els morts a la terra i van partir pel mig un país;
Aquests cinc reis van fer que morís un rei
La poderosa mà porta a una espatlla inclinada,
Les articulacions dels dits estan comprimides amb guix;
La ploma d’oca ha posat fi a l’assassinat
Que posa fi a la conversa
La mà que va signar el tractat va generar una febrada, un excitació
I va créixer la fam, i van venir llagostes;
És gran la mà que manté domini sobre
L’home mitjançant un nom gargotejat
Els cinc reis compten els morts però no suavitzen
La crosta de la ferida ni fan copets al front;
Una mà governa la pietat i una mà governa el cel;
Les mans no tenen llàgrimes per vessar.
Original in English:
The hand that signed the paper felled a city;
Five sovereign fingers taxed the breath,
Doubled the globe of dead and halved a country;
These five kings did a king to death.
The mighty hand leads to a sloping shoulder,
The finger joints are cramped with chalk;
A goose’s quill has put an end to murder
That put an end to talk.
The hand that signed the treaty bred a fever,
And famine grew, and locusts came;
Great is the hand that holds dominion over
Man by a scribbled name.
The five kings count the dead but do not soften
The crusted wound nor pat the brow;
A hand rules pity as a hand rules heaven;
Hands have no tears to flow.
Sunday, January 22, 2023
"Christmessi" – My latest opinion column for Catalonia Today magazine

Messi arives in Argentina with the World Cup. EFE.
[This article was first published in Catalonia Today magazine, January 2023.]
Is the legend now complete? Is it a case of all praise to The Great One, Lionel Messi, the Messiah of Argentina, Saviour of Rosario and FIFA-family favourite?
On the whole it seems so, but like so many public figures, this 35 year old (who spent all his crucial teenage years at La Masia, the Barcelona Football Club youth academy) sharply divides opinion. Even within me.
On the one hand, he’s undoubtedly the most skilled footballer I’ve ever seen. I was lucky enough to watch him play at the Camp Nou stadium in the King’s Cup final of 2013. He hit the crossbar with a penalty but (unlike on television) what I noticed more than anything else was that every pass, run and movement he made was at least 20 percent faster than anyone else. And just as throughout the world cup tournament, he was also more accurate than any other player on the pitch.
Every time I’ve watched this wizard play I’ve seen something new to admire about his work. In the semi final against Croatia he set up a goal with an opponent leaning all over his 1.69 metres, as he controlled the ball and shifted position several times. Shrugging his much bigger pursuer off, Messi’s strength and balance in those vital seconds was a rare, rare thing. It meant his team was able to get into the final and go on to win the damn thing.
I was a good young footballer myself and considered trying to shoot for a career in the sport (or in cricket) so the talents and longevity of a supreme athlete like Messi are impossible for me to dismiss. What disturbs me is that while Messi has always been a relatively “clean” sportsman on the field – well known for not fake ’diving’ to get a free kick, for example – his record off the field deserves plenty of criticism.
For me, it’s hard to stomach his tax evasion of more than four million euros: using offshore and shell companies in Belize, Uruguay and Panama. In 2022 alone, his income has been put at 41 million US dollars. His various acts of philanthropy during a decade and a half career can’t take away from the argument that these high-profile guys need to be a role model as a citizen and celebrity.
“The Messi Brand” has Adidas as its main corporate sponsor. The same Adidas that has a lengthy history of human rights abuses against its workers and parts suppliers. Messi himself would surely know but has chosen to ignore this.
The fact that he, with the major help of his teammates and support staff, has given countless hours of pleasure, and even joy, to millions of people has to be considered, though. With a round ball on an expanse of turf, Messi’s been an entertainer like no other. He’s generally avoided Cristiano Ronaldo’s vain parading or the unethical cheating and self-abuse of Maradona.
In the end, I’d consider lifting the world cup as a fitting way to recognise Messi’s otherworldly ability. I just can’t help also wishing that our heroes were more heroic when they step out of the arena.
Saturday, January 14, 2023
In the best of company
Humbled and honoured to be found next to the brilliant Robert Hughes at independent Come In bookshop in Barcelona.
(Thanks to Leigh for photo.)
Friday, January 6, 2023
"Running dry – Protecting the right to water in Europe"
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| [Greenwich Park parched by the heat and lack of rain on 12 August 2022. Photo by Alisdare Hickson. Source: Wikimedia Commons.] |
"Water privatization has catastrophic results, as shown by France and the United Kingdom. Citizens across Europe are increasingly opposed to the liberalization of essential services. But with climate change worsening droughts and heatwaves, public ownership is only the first step towards just and effective water management.
European policy has traditionally treated water as an abundant commodity to be extracted for profit. The severe droughts recently experienced in Europe indicate that this era of abundance is over and have brought home the true value of water as a precious and scarce resource. It is time to look at water in a new light.
This new situation requires a radical change in our approach to water policy and management. Former attempts to integrate water resources into the European single market now appear short-sighted at best and potentially disastrous. In order to build the resilience necessary to overcome the climate-related challenges ahead, we can no longer allow water to be exploited by market forces for private gain. The neoliberal water policies in place in many European countries need to be reversed, and water must be subject to public or commons-based governance. Only in this way can we build resilient water systems and keep water universally available and affordable.
Privatization and resistance
The current era of water privatization first began to emerge in the 1980s when, under the conservative rule of Margaret Thatcher, the UK government oversaw the transformation of water facilities into private assets. Water was privatized in England and Wales in 1989 as part of a wider liberalization agenda for public services and resources. Ten regional water authorities and their proprietary infrastructure were completely transferred to privately owned companies. As a result, water companies became ‘permanent regulated monopolies’, facing ‘public sector levels of competition and risk’ with ‘private sector levels of profit and return’.1
The result was a complete collapse in investment in water infrastructure with serious consequences for water losses. Private company Thames Water, which provides water to the London metropolitan area, has been criticized for its inability to deal with huge leaks from its pipes. The estimated water loss is 600 million litres per day – almost a quarter of all the water it supplies. This quickly becomes a severe problem in the context of drought-induced water scarcity. Thames Water and Southern Water, another large water and wastewater company, have also been criticized for unacceptable levels of sewage pollution and spills, which seriously affect both valuable ecosystems and public health."
Read more (especially about Italy and remunicipalisation of water in France) from source at Eurozine here.
Wednesday, January 4, 2023
Yanis Varoufakis: Crisis, Recession, the Left & the state of the world economy
Sunday, January 1, 2023
Safia El Aaddam’s “Immigrants’ daughter” (2022)
"Lunja is brave. A warrior. Born in a small Catalan village, of Amazigh origin, an indigenous [group] of North Africa, from childhood she confronts racism, poverty,...sometimes even her own culture."
With this YA novel, the author puts mental health on the table and how it gets worse due to being an immigrants’ daughter and racialized as of African origin."
First found at Literary Rambles.
Saturday, December 24, 2022
"Promenade of Desire" – My latest review for Catalonia Today magazine

[This article was first published in Catalonia Today magazine, Dec. 2022 under the title “Promenade of multitudes”]
A really good book is a universe away from its marketing.
One vibrant new piece of nonfiction, “Promenade of Desire, A Barcelona Memoir” is being promoted as “a sensual coming of age story: From Catholic virgin to Mata Hari as Spain moves from dictatorship to democracy.”
All true enough, but as well as getting a grip on the massive changes in Barcelona from the 1960s until just after the Olympic games in the early 1990s, the author Isidra Mencos charts a deeply internal arc.
Apart from the apparent honesty, what I like most about this raw account of an individualist’s first few three decades is the richness of self-discovery it contains.
The author’s sexual desire is undeniable but so is her lust for experience itself.
With an equally powerful bravery, she plunges into a subculture of horny squatters, for a while, finding herself most at home with the homeless.
We also witness other improvised or adapting versions of her: as an uncertain teenager and then young adult, still racked with a punishing guilt.
Born to an affluent, emotionally-cold lawyer family (from the city’s high up Sant Gervasi-Bonanova area) who slowly fell on hard economic times, Mencos tellingly relates how her closest childhood at home was with their housekeeper/childminder/cook.
Quica, a semi-literate Andalusian woman who’d lost a husband and ten of her fourteen children during their infancy, was an anchor for the inquisitive young girl even during night-time bad dreams.
Mencos’ pure affection for this kind of person (who makes it possible for the rich to live like the rich) is touching.
It’s a clear sign that she transcended at least a snobbery of neglect. The words, ”I bawled at her death as I had not done for my lost grandparents,” poignantly ends one section in the book.
Looking at wider themes, identity is a major one. The author puts herself in the category of a “good girl,” even a “girlie girl” with “a quiet demeanor that dissolved with the ice cubes at the bottom of [her] second drink. Out came a fearless woman who declared her literary opinions with confidence and subjugated a man with a swing of her hips.”
In fact, alcohol became a major problem for her and some of the men who were her live-in lovers. Violence and abuse followed.
The details are harrowing but also somehow instructive and a kind of balance comes in the shape of a new half-American half-Japanese female friend. “A role model for me because I still lived at half speed, with a split personality,” writes Mencos.
As Barcelona remodeled and replenished itself for the 1982 Olympics, the author herself was doing something similar as a part-time translator of articles for the official games committee. Then she set a routine for passing TOEFL and SAT exams so she could do a PhD in the USA.
Ultimately, she is healed: by herself, by quality therapies, probably too by discovering a genuine, transporting passion for the “unique vocabulary and no fears, no confusion” of salsa music and dance.
Here, we see a Barcelona that would’ve even been foreign to many locals, an immigrant/latin underworld of afflicted aficionados and slaves to a beat that was new to these European shores.
One of the great qualities in this book is that we also see a person who is now unafraid of so much she had been.
Thursday, December 22, 2022
Orwell's Barcelona, December 1936 (& who really are the "wealth creators") [Reposted]
Sunday, December 18, 2022
Come and get your match-box apartment
"EPE reports that Spain’s first ‘micro-casas’ are now available for rental. The 847 abodes, (500 of them are just twenty-five square metres) are in a macro-complex in an industrial area of Madrid about an hour from the city-centre and start at 788€ per month. The residence, run by the US Greystar Management (here), also offers common facilities, such as a yoga-room, a gym and a laundry. With video. "
This story first found on excellent news service BoT
Sunday, December 11, 2022
An ugly truth
"The Banco de España confirms that company profits grew seven times more than wages in 2022.
The institution says that companies have transferred the increase in costs to sales prices and have improved or maintained their profitability during the current period of high inflation."
Found at BoT : a great summary of Iberia's news.
(Original source at ElDiario here.)
Tuesday, December 6, 2022
"The skin of a bull" by Salvador Espriu (my updated translation*)
Sometimes it is necessary, essential
that a man dies for a people
But an entire people must never die
for a single man:
Remember this, Sepharad.
Make sure to keep the bridges of dialogue safe
and try to understand and love
the different reasonings and tongues of all your children.
Drop by drop, let the rain fall on the seedlings
and the air cross the wide fields
like a generous extended hand.
May Sepharad live forever
through order and peace
In work and in hard-won
liberty.
"La pell de brau" by Salvador Espriu (1913 - 1985)
*Thanks to Antoni Cardona for co-translating.
Sunday, December 4, 2022
Rewards for you
They are protesting the continuation of government under-funding, salary freezes, creeping privatisation and the countless hours of over-work that this neglect creates for them and all public hospital staff.
This is how we as a society are really saying thank you to them for risking their health and lives since the Covid pandemic started 3 years ago this month.









