A blog on social / public issues / education and cultural life in Catalonia, Spain and wider Europe.
Monday, September 4, 2023
Video: "Sign Language" by [Catalonia's] Macaco - 'Lenguas de Signos ft. Monsieur Periné'
Sunday, March 20, 2022
"My Catalonia" -- My latest opinion column for Catalonia Today magazine
| [Photo: C.Morell] |
When I think of Catalonia what immediately comes to mind is the word ‘home’. I see the wide view across rows of vineyards, the mountains of the Penedès in the distance, the tops of Montserrat further away, only able to be seen in winter when the leaves on the bare trees allow it. That, from our back terrace.
I have to think about our house too. A narrow but tall and modern ‘adossat’ terrace that has been ours to enjoy (and pay off back to the bank) for the last eleven years. The nighttime light from the old church tower across the street still angles in across our lowly bed. Its bells still ring every fifteen minutes to remind me I rise and sleep in Europe, not Australia, England or Japan.
I am also compelled to recall the splendours of the food here. Discovering the joy in simple ‘pa amb tomàquet’ and the savoury wonder of salt cod, ‘suquet’ seafood stew or the earthy richness of ‘calçot’ green onions cooked on a wood fire.
In Catalonia too, I found the pleasure of chewing the sweet, scant flesh on rabbit bones and diving into a bowl of snails ‘a la llauna’ hot from a tin tray, freshly out of the oven. We still drink the co-op white wine from Covides (an unfortunate name in these times.) Good, cheap stuff pressed from Xarel·lo, Macabeu and Parellada grapes.
Of course, Catalonia is so much more than just that. It’s where we’ve worked. I’ve written, taught and travelled thousands of kilometres to do these things. It’s an hour-long seat on RENFE trains, it’s driving the hills up and down the single-lane N340 running past Vallirana.
Equally, this place has sustained us and drained us; given so much but also taken so much energy and expense. It’s where our son went to school and learnt to use two languages. Catalan is his second language and as he makes his way as an independent young adult he still uses it every day in his work and study, I’m immensely happy to say.
Catalonia gave him superb teachers all through primary and secondary school. Every one of them were caring and dedicated women, apart from a handful of young men and they too were the exact kinds of male anyone could hope for as role models for him.
As well, my thoughts can’t go much further than to the selfless people who work with such heart and humanity in the public health system here. I owe a great deal to them all and so does my wife.
And there’s always The Big Smoke, the capital that brings tourists from everywhere. I was first one myself almost 25 years ago and now as a local I love to busy myself in the crowds on the streets. Every part of Barcelona is a gift, even the least attractive corners.
My Catalonia continues to spur the imagination. (I once had the idea of a book of photos of every rambla in every town where they could be found across the land).
Now, in my more optimistic times, I see somewhere I’d never want to leave. As it is, I don’t want to live anywhere else. Here is as good as it gets.
[This article was first published in Catalonia Today magazine, March 2022.]
Sunday, May 2, 2021
LAUNCH EVENT: Spanish-English edition of Clive James' poetry
A bilingual Spanish-English volume of Australian Clive James' poetry has just been published. Title: "Fin de Fiesta. Últimos Poemas". (Publisher, Pre-Textos.) Launch: 4 May, 19.00h, bookshop, Pau Claris, 144 Barcelona.
Sunday, February 7, 2021
Deaf woman chosen as Podemos spokesperson in Valencia's parliament
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| [Photo: Europa Press] |
In an historical first, Spanish progressive-left party Podemos has chosen Pilar Lima, who is hearing-impaired, as their parliamentary spokesperson in the Valencian parliament. She will communicate in sign-language.
Source: Business Over Tapas. (A superb news summary service.)
Saturday, January 16, 2021
"A village with their own dialect and far from everything"
"From Fascinating Spain comes ‘San Martín de Trevejo, the village in Extremadura where Asturian (sic) is spoken’.
Saturday, December 5, 2020
And the next most popular language used in each country is...
Please comment below and let me know what you think, if you're surprised etc...
Sunday, November 22, 2020
"House closed" -- My latest article for Catalonia Today magazine
"Precarious:" a word that accurately describes so many jobs under modern hyper-capitalism.
In their Barcelona branch (which operated for 40 years) at least 120 teachers and support staff have lost their positions.
Speaking to union representative Duncan Hawthorne, who has worked for IH Barcelona for the last 23 years, he told me he’d expected to stay with them for the rest of his working life. His opinion is that it was a great school but badly run over the years, particularly due to power struggles at the top of the company.
“There’s a lot of anger towards the management and that’s who the staff are trying to hold responsible for the end of the business," he said. "Covid 19 wasn't a major cause of us closing. It was just the last straw."
Duncan believes that employees feel abandoned by the owners of the company and their recent protests outside their former office on Trafalgar Street in Barcelona are evidence of that. He explained that one of the worst problems for employees is that they are currently in a kind of financial limbo, neither being paid by IH nor able to claim unemployment benefits (which for hundreds of thousands of others, are currently taking up to 3 months to be paid by the Spanish government.)
Duncan also told me that the company is in the hands of a legal administrator but is not yet technically bankrupt.
Apart from this, it needs to be acknowledged that IH has stated online:
“The closure of schools is due to a sustained deterioration in recent years of International House's main lines of business, resulting from fundamental changes in the world of language teaching. This downward trajectory worsened, without a doubt, with the crisis caused by COVID-19.”
As someone who has also worked in and for a number of different language “academy” schools for many years, to me, this disaster represents just one of many that are striking this sector.
As long as there are native English speakers in Barcelona and elsewhere in Europe giving one-to-one “classes” for a glass of wine or online for under 10 euros an hour -- both common enough -- there will be continuing exploitation of professional, qualified and experienced teachers.
In reality, across our continent there is no law; there is only power. Or at least the power to enforce it. The “convenio” standard that legally exists has been widely abused for years and the pandemic has meant a genuine drop in pay rates. I’ve seen this for myself in trying to find teaching work since August.
So, what do we have in the industry? We have closed houses and open slather.
Sunday, November 17, 2019
Q and A on life as an immigrant in Europe (or "expat" if you prefer.)
My name's Brett Hetherington and I'm a European (Australian/British) journalist, teacher and author (most recently of Slow Travels in Unsung Spain) living in Catalonia, Spain with my partner/wife Paula and our teenage son Hugo.
Where, when and why did you move abroad?
Our first move was to Japan in 1999 (where Hugo was born) and three years later we moved to England.
After two years there we moved to live in inland Catalonia in the Barcelona region and have been there since 2006.
What challenges did you face during the move?
Plenty! Languages were a big one because we all had to deal with Catalan as well as Spanish. Hugo was only five when we came, so he picked it up quickly with the help of some great teachers at his Catalan primary school. I've become functionally fluent in Spanish and generally understand Catalan okay, though I don't speak it.
How did you find somewhere to live?
Luckily, a teacher my wife was replacing was leaving his apartment in the town where we wanted to live, Vilafranca del Penedes. I communicated directly with the landlord (in a mixture of his poor English and my even worse Spanish). Later, we bought our own place in a small nearby town, almost a decade ago now.
Are there many other expats in your area?
Very few here, but 20 minutes away on the coast around Sitges (where we used to work) there is a strong expat community.
What is your relationship like with the locals?
Friendly, and some acquainatiances, but few real close friends, I would say. Most small-town, rural Catalan people call themselves "closed." They mean that they're not open to having many new social relationships outside their already established ones.
What do you like about life where you are?
The vineyards and open spaces of nature around. It's a great balance too when you mainly work in the big city of Barcelona.
What do you dislike about your expat life?
Well, I think of myself as an immigrant more than an expat because I don't see who we are as any different to others who came here from somewhere else for a better life. I do intensely dislike the bureaucracy and arbitary kinds of decision-making in Southern Europe. The low salaries that never rise are making life harder every year too.
What is the biggest cultural difference you have experienced between your new country and life back home?
This has been our home for a long time now, but if I compare it with where I lived most of my life, I'd say I miss the more spontaneous way people socialise and talk to strangers, as well as the multi-cultural population being a part of the mainstream.
What do you think of the food and drink in your new country? What are your particular likes or dislikes?
That's the only downside, because the seafood and usual high quality in well-priced "menus del dia" is great. There's fantastic, cheap wine in this area too.
What advice would you give to anyone following in your footsteps?
Do it! But be prepared to live in a low-wage economy unless you are very lucky. On the other hand, Spain/Catalonia is a great place to bring up kids, in my opinion.
What are your plans for the future?
You can find Brett's book, Slow Travels in Unsung Spain, on Amazon.






